How to Build a Playhouse

1.1 Clear the area where you want to build the playhouse and layout for the foundation.

1.2 Using the illustration below as a guide, dig six holes each 1’ deep x 1’ in diameter.

2.1 Cut six pressure-treated 6×6 posts to 1′-7 1/2″. If the ground is not perfectly flat, you’ll need to cut taller on the low side to ensure that the tops of all six posts are level with each other. 

2.2 Set the 6×6 posts into the holes, then fill in around them with concrete. Allow the concrete to cure overnight.

3.1 Construct the floor frame out of pressure-treated 2x6s. Cut two 2x6s to 8′, and two more to 4′-9″.

3.2 Assemble the frame with 3″ screws.

3.3 Using a carpenter’s framing square, check the corners to make sure they are 90°.

4.1 Cut five 2×6 pressure-treated floor joists to 4′-9″.

4.2 Set the joists between the perimeter rim joists and secure them with 3″ screws.

4.3 Using a carpenter’s framing square, check the corners to make sure they are 90°.

5.1 Assemble the floor frame of the front porch that extends from the playhouse. Cut two pressure-treated 2×6 rim joists to 8′, and seven 2×6 floor joists to 1′-10 1/2″.

5.2 Join together the porch floor frame with 3” screws, then use the same screws to fasten the porch frame to the playhouse floor frame. 

5.3 Using a carpenter’s framing square, check the corners to make sure they are 90°.

6.1 Make the floor of the playhouse and porch out of 5/8″ plywood, according to the drawing. Cut two plywood panels, each measuring 4′ x 7′.

6.2 Secure the plywood to the floor frame with 2″ screws.

7.1 Use pressure-treated 2x4s to construct the front wall frame. Refer to the drawing below as a guide. Cut eight 2×4 wall studs to 4′-9″, four 2×4 cripple studs to 9” to go above and below the window openings, and one 2×4 cripple stud to go above the doorway opening. Also, cut two 8′ long 2x4s to serve as the top and bottom wall plates, two 2×4 window headers to 1′-8″, two 2×4 window sills to  1′-8″, and one 2×4 door header to 2’. 

7.2 Fasten together the wall frame with 3″ screws.

7.3 Using a carpenter’s framing square, check the corners to make sure they are 90°.

9.1 Use pressure-treated 2x4s to construct the two side walls, which are identical in size. Refer to the drawing below as a guide. For each wall, cut four 2×4 wall studs to 4′-9″, and two 2x4s to 4′-5″ for the top and bottom wall plates. Cut 

a 1′-3″ cripple stud for below the window and a 3” cripple stud for above the window. Then cut two 2x4s to 1′-8″ for the window header and window sill. 

9.2. Fasten together the wall frames with 3″ screws.

9.3 Using a carpenter’s framing square, check the corners to make sure they are 90°.

9.4. Stand the framed walls into place and fasten them down to the floor deck and to each other with 3” screws.

10.1. Fortify the walls by adding a second 2×4 plate to the top wall plates. Cut two pressure-treated 2x4s to 7′-5”, and two others to 5′.

10.2. Fasten the 2x4s to the tops of the walls with 3″ screws.

11.1. Using pressure-treated 2x4s, cut fourteen rafters 3′-9 1/2″ long, according to the dimensions in drawings below.

11.2. Next, cut seven pressure-treated 2×4 collar ties to 2′-4″ long.

11.3. Then cut five pressure-treated 2x4s to 1′-2 1/2″ long and one 2×4 to 1′-1″ to form the ridge boards that go between the rafters along the peak of the roof.

11.4. Fasten together the roof frame with 3″ screws.

11.5. Secure the roof frame to the top of the playhouse walls with 3” screws.

12.1. Using pressure-treated 2x4s, cut one right and one left stud for each gable-end wall, as shown in the illustration below. You will need four studs in total cut to 10″.

12.2. Fasten the studs to the gable-end rafters with 3″ screws.

13.1. Make the soffit and fascia boards out of pressure-treated 1x4s and 1x6s. Cut two 1×4 fascias and two 1×6 soffits to 8′ long, and fasten them to the rafter tails with 2″ screws.

14.1. Cut 5/8″ plywood for the roof sheathing using the drawing below as a guide. You will need two 4′ x 6′-11 1/4″ sheets and two 1′-8 3/4″ x 4′ sheets.

14.2. Secure the plywood to the rafters with 2″ screws.

15.1. Cut 5/8″ plywood for the front wall sheathing using the drawing below as a guide. You will need two 3′ x 5′ sheets, one 1 1/2″ x 2′ sheet and one 8″ x 2′ sheet. 

15.2. After securing the plywood to the wall studs with 2″ screws, cut out the 1′-8″ x 3′ window openings.

16.1. Cut 5/8″ plywood for the rear wall sheathing using the drawing below as a guide. You will need two 4′ x 5′-6″ sheets.

16.2. Secure the plywood with 2″ screws.

17.1. Cut 5/8″ plywood for the side walls sheathing using the drawing below as a guide. For each wall you will need two 7′-1″ x 1′-8 3/4″ sheets, one 1′-8″ x 2′-1/4″ sheet and one 1′-8″ x 2′-8″ sheet.

17.2. Secure the plywood with 2″ screws.

18.1. Staple building paper to all four walls. You will need about 122 sq ft. of paper.

19.1. Trim out the side walls with pressure-treated 1x3s. Use the illustration below as a reference. Cut two 1x3s to 5′-10″, two to 3′-1 3/4″ and one to 4′-8 1/4″.

19.2. Prepare and install starter course 4′-8 1/4″ long from the pressure-treated lumber with cross section 1/4″ x 3/4″ (node B).

19.3. Install the siding using 1/2″ x 6″ bevel siding in accordance with the illustration below.

19.4. Also use pressure-treated 1x3s to trim out the window on each side wall. Cut two boards to 1′-8″ and two to 3′-5″.

20.1. Use pressure-treated 1x3s and 1x2s to create trim for the front wall. Using the illustration below as a reference, cut the following trim pieces out of 1x3s: two to 4′-10 1/4″, two to 2′-8 1/2″, one to 7′-9 3/4″, two to 4′-6 1/2″ and one to 2′. Cut a 1×2 to 2’ to go along the bottom of the doorway.

20.2. Prepare and install two starter courses 2′-8 1/2″ long from the pressure-treated lumber with cross section 1/4″ x 3/4″ (node B on page 28).

20.3. Install 1/2″ x 6″ siding in accordance with the illustration below.

20.4. Use pressure-treated 1x3s to trim out the windows. Cut two 1x3s cut to 1′-8″ and two to 3′-5″.

21.1. Trim out the rear wall with pressure-treated 1x3s. Cut two 1x3s to to 7′-9 3/4″ and two to 5′-4 1/4″.

21.2. Prepare and install starter course 7′-9 3/4″ long from the pressure-treated lumber with cross section 1/4″ x 3/4″(node B on page 28).

21.3. Install the siding in accordance with the illustration below.

22.1. Construct the door frame out of pressure-treated 2x4s. Cut two 2x4s to 3′-7″ for the vertical stiles, two to 1′-11 1/2″ for the horizontal rails. Then cut two 2x4s to 2′-1 1/2″ for the diagonal cross braces and one to 1′-4 1/2″ for the middle rail. Fasten together the parts with 5″ screws. 

22.2. Cut a piece of 5/8″ plywood to 1′-11 1/2″ x 4′-2″, as shown in the drawing below, and attach it to the 2×4 door frame using 1 5/8” screws.

22.3. Next, use pressure-treated 1x3s to make the trim that goes around the perimeter of the plywood door panel. Cut two 1×3 rails to 1′-6 1/2″ and two 1×3 stiles to 4′-2″. Fasten the trim with 2″ screws. 

22.4. Using 1/4″ x 3/4″ pressure-treated lumber, cut and install a starter course 1′-6 1/2″ long using (node B on page 28) as a reference.

22.5. Cut siding to fit within the door’s 1×3 face frame, as shown below. 

22.6. Attach the siding with 1½″ galvanized nails.

22.7. Hang the door in the opening with 3″ hinges. Then, attach a 6″ handle (see nodes E, F).

22.5 For the exterior siding on the door, use 1/2″ x 6″ wood siding boards and the illustration below as a reference.

22.6 Assemble siding shields with 2″ galvanized nails.

22.7 Install two 3″ door hinges using 6×1″ wood screws. Finish the doors installation by attaching 6″ door pull (see nodes E, F).

23.1. Make a rectangular frame for each of the playhouse’s four windows out of pressure-treated 2x2s, as shown in the drawing below. Cut two 2x2s to 2′-11 1/2″ and two to 1′-7 1/2″. Rout a rabbet into each part to accept the glass pane. Fasten together the 2×2 window-frame parts with 3” screws. 

23.2. Cut and install a 1′-5 1/4″ x 2′-9 1/4″ glass pane into the rabbets routed into the rear of each frame. Secure the glass panes to the window frame with 1⁄2” quarter-round molding. Attach the molding with 1/2″ brads.

23.3. Set the windows into the wall openings and secure them with 3″ screws into the wall framing.

24.1. Install aluminum drip-edge flashing around the perimeter of the roof. You will need about 35 linear feet of flashing. 

24.2. Set the flashing along the edges of the roof, starting at the bottom edge, and secure it 1″ roofing nails. Be sure the flashing along the sloped ends of the roof overlap the flashing placed along the bottom edge of the roof.

25.1. Next, to weatherproof the playhouse you will need about 70 sq. ft. of building paper and the same amount of asphalt roof shingles.

25.2. Start by stapling building paper to the roof, then install asphalt shingles, as recommended by the manufacturer.

Now that your playhouse is all done, you are ready to finish it with your favorite paint, stain, or clear wood preservative.